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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small place achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.